It is a big anniversary year for Germany. Sixty years since the Berlin airlift and the signing of the constitution, the Grundgesetz. And of course 20 years since the crumbling of the Berlin Wall, the collapse of communism and the reunification of the country. So Germany should be celebrating a party all year long, right? Wrong. The country is agonising, yet again, over how it should show its joy. Dare I say: Typisch Deutsch? The Berlin airlift commemorations, I must admit, went relatively well: thousands of Berliners ate Wurst and potato salad in Tempelhof airport; old pilots, American and British, returned and reminisced with old Berliners. True, there was grumbling – this was Berlin, after all, the European capital of grumbling – about the closing of Tempelhof airport. But the Senate may yet rescue its reputation with the older generation by shifting the impressive Allied Museum – with its detailed history of the airlift – to some of the empty buildings in the former airport. So far, so good; a Volksfest was exactly what was required for this anniversary. And the local authorities knew what to do because this was about the history of West Berlin and about the transatlantic relationship, about hardship and the heroism of foreigners.
The problem starts as soon as one tries to dream up ways of celebrating something abstract – like the Grundgesetz. How do you have a Volksfest about a document drawn up by politicians and lawyers, with almost no emotional resonance? The anniversary of the Grundgesetz is, of course, simply a way of making the birth of the Bundesrepublik. But if you talk to Germans who lived through these years, you find out that they were moved by economic development rather than the sudden arrival of political freedoms, rights and duties. “I believe we are more concerned with economic myths, the economic miracle, the D-Mark,” (Ich glaube, wir hängen eher an Wirtschaftmythen, Wirtschaftswunder, D-Mark”) says the political scientist Herfried Münkler. “The Grundgesetz did not play such a big role in the collective memory of the Germans.” (“Das Grundgesetz hat im kollektiven Gedächtnis der Deutschen keine große Rolle gespielt“) The question then, in the 60th year of the Federal Republic, is how to create a narrative, a credible storyline for the country. How difficult this can be was demonstrated by the early plans for the Grundgesetz party: there was supposed to be a so-called “Car Walk”, a sponsored display of Germany’s proudest limousines along Unter den Linden. And celebrity show-master Thomas Gottschalk. And, just round the corner in the Reichstag, the election of the new Bundespräsident. Somehow, it did not quite match the occasion; a bit like holding a disco in a crypt.
Now, let’s be clear about this: Germans know how to party. People in England are still talking about the carnival mood during the 2006 World Cup, when fans literally danced in the streets. Until the German flags were carefully rolled away, everyone talked about a “relaxed patriotism”. Now we are back with more customary tense, nail-biting, lip-chewing, look-over-your-shoulder, are-we-doing-anything-wrong patriotism. Part of the challenge, it seems to me, is the reluctance to identify German heroes who can be used as role models and focal points for celebration. If Ludwig Erhard – rather than the Grundgesetz architect Carlo Schmid – is seen as the genius of the Wirtschaftswunder, then why not build a statue to him in every German city? Britain has statues of the (still-living) Margaret Thatcher – why not pay a similar tribute to Helmut Kohl? It might be controversial, but so what?
It is this timidity, the nervousness about facing the positive aspects of German history, that so baffles foreigners. A competition was recently launched to find a monument to mark German unity. It is supposed to be unveiled on November 9, 2009 and the competition was thrown open to everybody. Good! No fewer than 532 proposals were submitted. Even better! But then the 19-man jury, overwhelmed by the numbers, by the lack of clarity, decided that none of the designs was good enough. The ideas ranged from a huge golden banana – a reference perhaps to the East German enthusiasm for a fruit that they rarely saw under communism – a kind of carport garage with a black-red-gold roof, a giant key (the key to freedom), an apple tree made out of bronze. According to the writer Thomas Brüssig, one of the jury members, there was barely 30 seconds to decide on each proposal, and very little discussion. The reason for this debacle was not so much the poor quality – some designs could certainly have been developed into something more interesting – but rather the lack of a clear historical concept. Germany’s new monument was supposed to be a “freedom and unity monument”, taking in the spirit of past centuries but looking positively to the future. Yet freedom and unity have not always gone together. Bismarck united Germany through war and the crushing of domestic critics; Hitler too led a unified Germany. I talked to British architects about this dilemma, about how to fuse, in a single design, complex and competing versions of history. Their solution was simple: accept that ordinary east German people made a major contribution to German unification by abandoning their fear and taking to the streets. “Identify these people as heroes and design something that does them justice,” one leading architect told me. “And show their faces, the way that their bodies break out of the corset of power. This is not the time for an abstract tribute, or for golden bananas. They should just make a decision, work out new arguments – and get on with it!”
The irony is that Germany is very good at celebrating its victims. The underground library to mark the Nazi book burning is widely regarded as an enrichment of Berlin. Peter Eisenman’s Holocaust memorial remains impressive. Naturally, these constructions also took time and political wrangling. But that was understandable: the designers had to take into account the sensibilities of the victims. The Freedom and Unity monument should not be bound by these inhibitions. It should simply be a brave and interesting tribute to German heroism. Why is this so difficult for Germany?

